Raku Review: A Taste of Home, Untranslated

This review is written by Umami Kid (Elie Shimaoka)

California rolls, shrimp tempura sushi, teriyaki chicken…and the list goes on. Innovative spirits have strayed from the original Japanese flavors to pursue something new: dishes tailored to appeal to the American palate. While often disdained by purists, this trend should not be perceived negatively. Rather, it should be celebrated as a creative and experimental approach because they are the catalysts for growth in the culinary world. 

Yet, pragmatically, accessibility remains the primary motivation behind the domestication of Japanese food. Despite their pervasive presence in Japan, many ingredients are seen with skepticism. Take natto (fermented soybeans) for example—though celebrated in Japan for its rich umami and health benefits, it is often met with hesitation from the American audience due to its distinct aroma and sticky texture. Some even compare it with unpleasant imagery, dismissing natto without giving it a fair chance.

California Rolls are the staple of Japanese American food

That’s why Raku was a revelation for me. 

As I flipped the menu booklet, my eyes immediately went to familiar names: Sabazushi–pressed sushi with salt-pickled mackerel; nameko udon–udon with nameko mushrooms; hijiki–brown algae seasoned with sesame and sweet savory sauce. I had never seen these dishes in a Japanese restaurant in the US before. I felt as if I was transported back home.

Despite my initial concern about how those niche dishes were represented, the food did not disappoint. Kamonan, duck meat udon in a mildly flavored soy sauce-based broth, arrives steaming, releasing an appetizing aroma. The noodles had the perfect chew: silky smooth and perfectly slurpable. The duck was tender yet slightly firm, inviting me to savor the released juices with each bite. The level of dedication Raku puts into Japanese food truly elevates the standard of the cuisine, teaching people about udon’s infinite potential. Diners unfamiliar with real Japanese udon would leave with a new understanding of its essence.

Kamonan

Now, I can confidently say I am a huge fan of Raku. The restaurant remains true to what it believes in, upholding the trend of westernized Japanese food. They could easily have adapted the dishes to suit the American palate. But instead, they took a risk. Not everyone is open-minded to trying something unfamiliar, yet Raku takes on the bold challenge of sharing lesser-known local dishes with an American audience. That quiet courage is what I admire the most.

My friend ordered the Curry Udon

Learn more about Raku by visiting: https://www.rakunyc.com/

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